Plant: Fruit, pecan trees, berries and grape vines. Plant only varieties adapted to your county. Contact your county Extension office for a list of the best types. Complete all digging and transplanting of native and landscape trees, shrubs before new growth begins. Cool-season flowers and vegetables 3-6 weeks prior to last killing freeze date in your area. Summer- and fall-flowering perennials are divided this month.

Prune: Complete dormant-season pruning of shade trees, but do not "top" trees (crape myrtles included!). Evergreen shrubs, summer-flowering shrubs as needed to shape. Retain natural form. Peach and plum trees to remove vertical limbs and maintain open bowl shapes. Grape vines to remove as much as 80 to 90 percent of cane growth. Maintain canes on permanent trellises or wires. Bush roses by half (including Knockouts), always pruning just above buds facing away from the centers of the plants. Last chance to remove mistletoe-infested branches. Nandinas by removing as many as one-third to one-half of tallest canes completely to the ground. "Scalp" lawngrass late in month, if browned by winter freezes, by setting mower down one or two notches. Collect clippings and use in compost. Wear quality goggles, respirator.

Fertilize: Cool-season grasses fescue and rye mid-month with quality all-nitrogen plant food. Wait to fertilize warm-season grasses. Add complete-and-balanced, water-soluble fertilizer to new cool-season annual flowers, vegetables. Liquid root stimulator monthly to new plants that were bare-rooted or balled-and-burlapped.

On The Lookout: Broadleafed weedkiller to control henbit, dandelions, clover and other non-grassy weeds. Follow label directions closely. Pre-emergent weedkiller late in month in South Texas to prevent crabgrass, grassburs. Applications farther north will come in March. Repeat 90 days later. Scale insects on trunks, leaves of hollies, camellias, photinias, euonymus, shade and fruit trees (horticultural oil applied before growth begins).