Timely Tips – September 2013

Plant: Finish wildflower seedings this month. Plant them into tilled soil, away from competition of turfgrasses. Plant container-grown nursery stock. Hand-water new plants to ensure their survival. Finish planting St. Augustine sod by mid-month, to allow time for deep root growth before first freeze. Bermuda seed should also be sown by mid-September, but sod can be planted later in month if needed. Plant fescue seed for permanent turf in Northwest Texas, but only in areas receiving at least 4 hours of direct sunlight daily. Overseed warm-season turf with perennial rye by early to mid-month for winter green. Transplant spring-flowering perennials after temperatures start to fall in late September.

Prune: Tidy perennial beds by removing spent flowers, seedheads and old foliage now. Root-prune trees and shrubs you intend to move this winter, also wisterias that have failed to bloom normally in past springs. Remove large surface roots that threaten damage to pavement late in September.

Fertilize: Lawngrasses and landscape and garden plants. Apply a quality, high-nitrogen or all-nitrogen fertilizer, then water deeply. You may also want to use an iron/sulfur soil additive to solve yellowing from iron deficiencies. Keep iron products off masonry and painted surfaces that could be stained.

On the Lookout: Apply a pre-emergent herbicide such as Halts or Dimension early in September to prevent winter grassy weeds such as annual bluegrass, rescuegrass and rye. (Don’t use if you’re over-seeding your turf.) Gallery products prevent annual broadleafed weeds. Both types of pre-emergents need to be applied before the weeds actually sprout and start growing. You can apply them on the same day, then water them both onto the soil’s surface at the same time, but do not try to mix them in the fertilizer spreader. Make two separate passes across the lawn. Prune webworm webs out of pecans and other trees with a long-handled pole pruner. (Do not use near power lines.)